Golden Gai

Let's talk about nightlife, shall we?  The sky is the limit here in Tokyo.  Hot and sweaty clubs with pounding house music?  Check.  Swanky lounges with overpriced cocktails and low white couches?  Check.  Irish pubs with pool tables and dart boards?  Check.  Area formerly known for prostitution now turned into a few alleys of almost 200 tiny bars?  Check!  This special area is known as Golden Gai.

One small alleyway in Golden Gai

I've always been a fan of small bars.  There is a time and a place for the big and loud, but usually I'm in the mood for small and quiet.  The closest thing we have in DC to Golden Gai is Adam's Morgan.  I hesitate to even make this comparison, because Golden Gai is SO not the street of drunken frat guys throwing up on the sidewalk, but it's close.  In fact, on the way there my ears were assaulted by harsh English.  As in "Dude!"  "F- that!"  And "Let's get wasted!"  We let those guys pass so as to make sure we didn't go in the same place as them, of course.

We had done our research on Golden Gai.  Most literature suggests that many of these bars are not foreigner-friendly.  In fact, several of these bars aren't even open to the public.  You have to be a member of the bar to go in!  But my trusty guidebook suggested a few places, so we felt prepared.  We must have walked up and down each alley three of four times trying to make a decision.  Each place was really tiny- maybe seating 8-10 customers tops.  There were also a few places that stood out for their interesting signage:

While these signs were certainly intriguing, we stuck with our guidebook's suggestion of Albatross.  It was a cute place that was actually fairly big.  Two and a half floors (two floors of bar and one half loft area with just one table).  I loved the old school look of the chandeliers and twinkling candles everywhere.  I knew this was the kind of place where they took care in making cocktails, and I was right.

Dark and dangerous!

After a few drinks at Albatross, we decided to change it up.  With almost 200 bars to choose from, you can't stay at just one.  So next it was Nana.  This tiny place was run by a Chinese dude but specialized in Spanish wines and snacks.  There was even live music (one dude on a guitar) in the corner.  This bartender must have been pouring himself a drink every time a customer ordered, because he was pretty crazy.  He couldn't speak any Chinese, but his English was great.  He insisted I write my name in Chinese for him so he could analyze the characters.  I think I messed up my own name because he couldn't read the last one.  This bar got a little unusual as another patron was eager to practice English with us, and we weren't so eager to talk to him.  Let's just say that he insisted someone friend him on Facebook, but I don't think it's going to happen...

After the Spanish musings of Nana, it was off to Ami.  Ami means friend in French, and this place was definitely friendly...eventually.  At first, there was just a couple sitting at the bar and no visible bartender.  The guy was sleeping.  The girl popped up when we walked in and ducked behind the bar at once.  I still don't know if she actually works there or if she was just filling in.  This was the best of all the places because the pours were generous and the conversation great.  The guy eventually woke up and chatted with us quite a bit.  I think we'll definitely come back here.

Another great night exploring a new area!  It was all so different and special, but we did come across one familiar sounding place:

I thought I was far from home, but maybe not!