Japanese Christmas

You may recall last year's Christmas meal was a special box of goodies from good ol' Macku Donalds.  Well this year, we decided to up the ante and do it the way the real Japanese people do it.  That's right- we pre-ordered our KFC Christmas box by November 30th, as requested.  We figured this was our last Christmas here, so when in Rome...

A small box of fries and a big box of chicken- doesn't that just say Christmas to you?

Birthday Celebration

Today was another national holiday in Japan.  It seems like there is one every month.  Usually, we just sleep in and lazily enjoy the day, but today we got up before 8am.  Not only did we wake up early, but we actually went and stood in the cold for a few hours.  What could cause us to do such a thing?

A few others joined us this morning

Tokyo Motor Show

We went to the Tokyo Motor Show last weekend, along with over 800,000 other people.  It was the first time the event was actually IN Tokyo in years.  Recently, the show had been in a neighboring prefecture, making it much less accessible to Tokyo-ites.  It was also our first time to Tokyo Big Sight, a worthy venue for such an interesting show.

The grand entrance

I kind of hoped all the cars would be in those two upside-down pyramids, but alas- it seems this structure is just for show.  The good stuff was in the building behind.

Kyoto- the Food

As promised, here is a rundown of all the yummy eats from our recent trip to Kyoto.  Japanese food is always beautiful, but the food from Kyoto really is gorgeous.  I guess the traditional nature of Kyoto really shines through in the food. 
Besides the delicious bento we had on the train, the first treat of the trip was a small red bean-filled sweet and some green tea.  Who wouldn't enjoy this little treat while staring out into the nice garden?

The small sweet had a beautiful design and a small piece of gold leaf

Another Tokyo Thanksgiving

You may recall that last year's Thanksgiving was a bit of a fiasco.  There was a toasted chicken, burnt stuffing, and a power outage.  Don't get me wrong- it was totally worth it, but we decided to go a bit more low key this year.
It sounds a bit like the set up for a bad joke: What do you get when a Chinese American and a Filipino American cook a Thanksgiving dinner in Japan?  The answer is after the jump.

Wings frying...hey it's poultry- that's Thanksgiving-ish!

Homecoming

It's official.  We will be coming home in the spring, as planned!  There was a while there when I was a little worried things would not happen as we expected, but this letter arrived last week:

Approval for early graduation

So what does this mean?  Just a few more months of hard work (and traveling, exploring, eating, planning, etc.), and we'll be back in DC.  I can't wait to see and catch up with all of you!

Kyoto- the Sights

After living in Japan for an entire year, I finally made my way down south to Kyoto.  I was excited to get away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo and maybe even get to see some of Kyoto's famous red leaves.

Sogenchi Garden, a United Nations World Heritage site

Lucky for us, some of the leaves were just starting to change colors.  This meant a nice splash of contrast for all our pictures, but none of the crazy crowds of tourists that will flood Kyoto in a few weeks.

Off to Kyoto

"Kyoto is a very pretty city.  The prettiest in the country, so they say.  The capital of the nation in its day." 

This song has been my personal theme song for the past several weeks.  I was singing it to myself in preparation for our trip last week (sorry to our guests who had to deal with me singing it ALL the time!).  We were only there for two and a half days, but it was great!

Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion

It was my first time to visit Kyoto, and my first time taking the famous Japanese high speed train ("soon we'll take the Shinkansen, I can't wait til then.")  Check back soon for a full review of the trip!

Japanniversary

Happy One year anniversary to me!  Last year on this very date (October 29th), I arrived in the land of the rising sun.  I can't believe how the time has flown.  I was exhausted, both emotionally and physically, but I still remember my first meal: a steaming hot bowl of ramen!

First dinner in Tokyo- from the ramen shop in Motohasunuma

Tonight's meal will be just as memorable.  We are blessed to have two more visitors with us!  I'm looking forward to joining them shortly for a delicious dinner of shabu-shabu.  After dinner, we'll probably take some sticker pictures, drink some sake at our favorite tiny bar, and maybe sing some karaoke.  Are you jealous?  You should be!

I Love Engrish

I just can't help myself.  Everywhere I go, I stumble across some really amazing uses of the English language.  No one does it like the Japanese.  Enjoy!

T-shirt spotted while waiting in line for food at a summer festival: "I was hearing the voice, drinking the last coffee today.  I regard great music as and sleeping."

"American Kilts" for sale at a thrift store. 

Renewal

In Japan, a lot of English words have weird meanings.  For example, everyone lives in a 'mansion'.  The first time a student told me he had a mansion in Tokyo, I was taken aback.  I knew I he was a high-level businessman, but who actually flat out says they have a mansion?  Then I learned that mansion actually means apartment in Japanese English.  Man, I love correcting people with that one now! 
In the same way, the world 'renewal' is usually used in the context of a store that has just undergone some renovation.  After a store opens again, the signs all say Renewal Open.  It's almost the correct usage, but not quite.  Well yesterday, I had a renewal of my own.  I went to the immigration office to get my visa renewed.  It was going to expire at the end of this month.  Look what they gave me:

My new visa- a three year extension!

Fear not!  I have no intentions of staying here another three years.  But the three year visa doesn't cost any more than the one year visa, so I was told just to go for it.  So I did.  And I got it.  If anyone had asked me a year ago if I'd renew my visa for three years, I'd have told them they were crazy.  And yet here I am.  Well I guess it doesn't hurt- right?

Summer Nights- Festivals

This is the last in my series of summer entries.  There are many other things to talk about, but we put the duvet in the duvet cover, and I'm wearing sweatpants in the house.  So I think it's time to put this topic to bed.
I've saved the best for last.  Festivals are probably the coolest part about summer in Tokyo.  It seemed like there was a different festival every week.  Each neighborhood had their own, and sometimes each ethnic group had their own too.  We enjoyed a Thai festival, a food festival, a dancing festival, a fireworks festival, a festival featuring a giant duck, one with lots of paper mache characters, and one across the street from our home.

Turning summer melons into works of art at the Thai Festival in Ueno Park

Summer Nights- Baseball

As promised, I'm here to talk about a more familiar summer tradition.  I hadn't actually planned to go to a baseball game while in Tokyo.  It wasn't until our recent guest suggested it, that the thought even occurred to me- but I'm so glad we went!  It was illuminating.  In some ways, going to a baseball game here was just like going to a Nats or Orioles game back home.

Tokyo Giants vs. Yakult Swallows in Tokyo Dome

You had your standard advertisements around the stadium, people cheering and waving their towels, people eating popcorn in the stands, beer girls running around in fluorescent skorts...

Summer Nights

Summer lovin' had me a blast.  Summer lovin' happened so fast.  

    

The ultimate sign of summer: eating grilled corn on the cob outside in the park

I'm sorry.  I had to get it out of my system.  But the thing is- summer is over now.  And you know what?  It happened really fast.  And I DID have a blast!  But the other night, I left the house wearing jeans.  People had on hoodies.  So I thought I'd spend the next few entries doing a little montage of some Tokyo summer highlights.

Crosswalks

My last few entries have basically been cheating.  I uploaded a slew of vacation eye candy and called it writing.  So today, I thought I'd actually stop and do a bit of reflecting.

A crosswalk in Shinjuku that I've walked many times

Hong Kong Eats

It's been three weeks since we went to Hong Kong, but I'm still salivating over all the good food.  There was so much eating.  I think that last day- we ate seven times.  Gluttonous?  Definitely- but what else is there to do while on vacation?  Enjoy this collection of food porn (in the order it was eaten):

Roast pigeon- see it's little beak in the middle?

A table full of dim sum treats in Mongkok

I Love HK

Hong Kong was amazing!  It's a crazy, fast-paced city with funky buildings and strange smells.  We sure did cram a lot into those four short days.  Here's a little picture tour for now, with more (food!) to come later.

The evening light show across the water.

Between Guests

How can an entire month have gone by?  Didn't I just watch the last Harry Potter movie and spend time lamenting about how quickly time goes by???  Here we are again.  But I have a good excuse: family and friends have begun to visit.  I was blown away a few weeks ago by two surprise visitors who were stowaways in my sister's (very tiny) suitcase.  What a blast it was sharing my current home with those guys! 

Tiny little cars covered in cute graphics- a totally Tokyo sighting!

As I type this, another visitor is on her way.  The next week and a half will be filled with lots of eating and merriment.  Especially because we're headed to HONG KONG, BABY!  I'll be back soon with a full report of all the amazing eats I'm sure to encounter.  Roast goose anyone?  Steamed pork buns?  Dim Sum?  Egg tarts from street vendors?  Oh yes.  Until then! 

Thank You, Harry

I am fully aware that what I am about to say is an indicator of my getting older, but I'm going to say it anyway: Where the heck did the time go?!  Wasn't it just yesterday that this crazy phenomenon of a boy wizard swept the world under its spell?  Could it really be four years ago that I stood in line outside Borders in Silver Spring to buy the last book in the series?  Was it just eight months ago that I wrote about Partu One, my first movie-going experience in Tokyo?  Time is going by way too fast.  I want it all to slow down- I don't want it to be over.  But it's so over.  It all ended on July 15th.

Harry and Voldy, back to back on a huge ad in Roppongi Hills

Independence Day

Independence day is not my favorite holiday.  For one thing- it's always sticky hot out, and this day requires being outdoors a bit.  And once you've seen one set of fireworks, aren't they all the same?  The last time I remember being really excited about July 4th was in 1996 when I got to see my crush-of-the-moment on the big screen.  Yes, I'm talking about that action-packed blockbuster hit, Independence Day.  You might assume my crush at the time was Will Smith.  Sorry to disappoint you, but I had a big thing for another star in that movie.

Golden Gai

Let's talk about nightlife, shall we?  The sky is the limit here in Tokyo.  Hot and sweaty clubs with pounding house music?  Check.  Swanky lounges with overpriced cocktails and low white couches?  Check.  Irish pubs with pool tables and dart boards?  Check.  Area formerly known for prostitution now turned into a few alleys of almost 200 tiny bars?  Check!  This special area is known as Golden Gai.

One small alleyway in Golden Gai

3 Months Later

Every once and a while, a major world event happens.  These things are so huge, we just refer to them by date.  Here in Japan, people ask "where were you on 3/11?"  Here we are, already three months later.  I realize that some of you don't have any idea where I was- so I thought it was time to share my (long) story.

Small Accomplishments

When you're faced with a new home, a new job, a new set of friends, and a new language, sometimes you have to stop and appreciate the small things.  Moving to Tokyo has brought about more change than I ever could have imagined.  While most of it has been an amazing experience, I have noticed myself fading away a bit.  It's hard to communicate, so most days I just go about my routine as usual.  It's so much easier to just do what I know, you know?

Tokyo University

Every country has a prestigious school (or two) that's name stirs admiration from everyone.  The U.S. has Harvard and Yale.  The U.K. has Oxford.  For Japan, that school is Tokyo University.  Last weekend was Tokyo University's annual open house.  Todai, as it's known (not to be confused with that horrible chain of sushi buffets in the U.S.) has quite the reputation for academic excellence.  But once a year, all the students let their hair down and just have a good time.

Vending Machines

Japan is known for convenience.  There are convenience stores on almost every street corner (7-11, Family Mart, and Lawson- just to name a few).  Grocery stores, fast food chains, and family restaurants are open 24 hours a day.  The subway stations even have little marks along the platform so you know exactly where to stand for each door of every car on the train.  But the most famous piece of convenience is probably vending machines.

While you can find some vending machines selling everything from cigarettes, to umbrellas, to eggs, mostly they just sell drinks.  I've been taking it upon myself to try as many different drinks as possible.  This is no small task!  The possibilities are endless.  Hot or cold?  Can or bottle?  Soda or juice?

A typical row of vending machines along the sidewalk

Pirates

Last night we went to see Pirates of the Caribbean in 3D.  Back home, I would never have agreed to go and spend the money to see the fourth movie in a series that I don't particularly care about.  But, we hadn't been to the theater (or cinema as they say here) since November, so I thought it would be fun.

Lost Again

Here we go again.  When I first started this blog, it was all about feeling lost in a new place.  You know what really helps to rekindle that feeling?  Spending a blissful week at home.  All that time with familiar family, friends, and food makes Tokyo feel even stranger.  It probably doesn't help that I still don't really know my way around the new neighborhood.

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day, so I ventured out to get some essentials (toilet paper and fresh produce).  The lady at the drugstore handed me a handful of change that I proceeded to dump into my wallet.  Then, she apologized and indicated that she must have given me the wrong amount.  Of course I had no idea what she was saying and all the change was now mixed in with the other money in my wallet.  So we struggled for a minute and then we let it go.  Whether I took too much money from that store, or walked away with not enough- I'm not sure.  Then I went to the little produce store to get some fruit and veggies.  The guy was joking with me at the register and laughing about something he did that he thought was hilarious.  He kept apologizing to me, but I had no idea what was happening.  So I just smiled and bowed/nodded.  A sad feeling swept through me as I walked back, expensive apples in tow.  It may seem silly to you, but man did I feel good when I was here last week:

There's something comforting about familiarity when you've been away from it for so long.  Obviously, this comes in the form of food as well.  I was lucky enough to enjoy practically everything on my list and some other old favorites I had forgotten about:

Everything bagel with whitefish salad, tomato, capers, and red onion

Italian sandwich from Potbelly (a last minute Dulles Airport Snack)

But more important than familiar stores and food is of course, family and friends.  I've missed all of you so much over these last six months!  It was really hard to leave again, knowing it will be a year until I see a lot of you again.  Please try and visit if you can.

In the meantime, it's back to the unfamiliar.  I was sad the first few days back, but I had a really great birthday the other day in this amazing city.  While I miss all of you terribly, I'm still feeling lucky to be on this grand adventure.  See you soon. 

DCA or Bust

In just a few hours, my butt will be fast asleep on a beautiful All Nippon Airways jet.  I'm looking forward to it after an extremely long and tiring day.  Those Japanese flight attendants sure do their best to make you comfy. 

True to form, the packing got done at the very last moment, but it's done and whatever is in the suitcase is in the suitcase.  I plan on relying heavily on clothes I left at home.  So if you see me wearing a Redskins jersey and some hot pink pajama pants- don't judge.

All the foreigners I know have warned me about reverse culture shock.  I haven't given it too much thought, but I can definitely see the potential.  So when you see me, it might be best to speak quietly and add lots of sound effects while I talk.  How else will I know you are paying attention?  Please also be sure to cover your mouth while you laugh.  And if you hand me something- you'd better use two hands because I may freak out if you dare to use only one.  No big deal, right?

See you in DC!

The List

We're coming home next week!  It's going to be a short but sweet visit.  We are super excited about the wedding of two dear friends, and next Friday night is sure to be an event to remember.  While that is obviously our number one priority, we are compiling some other things to do as well.  Mainly eat.  Oh, and catch up with all our wonderful friends and family of course!  But also eat.  To be as efficient as possible, we've begun compiling a list. 

In no particular order:

Taco Bell
Ledo (preferably with cans of Coors Light)
Dim Sum
Popeyes (Spicy, of course)
Cheese (preferably including Roccolo from Cowgirl Creamery)
Wine (preferably red and full-bodied and preferably served with above)
Greek food (anything with lots of feta cheese, red onions, and olives)
Jaleo
Strong coffee
Our parents' cooking
Salads (no iceberg lettuce and no mayo based dressings)
Bread (must make teeth hurt when chewing)
Cool Ranch Doritos
Chips with Helluva Good French Onion Dip
Cherry Coke (the real stuff- no time for Zero)
Reese's Peanut Butter Cups

I could go on for ages, but these are just some of the most important items on the list.  How can all this be done in one short week?  I'm not sure, but it's going to be fun to try! 

What would YOU miss eating if you were overseas?

Neighbors

We are moving tomorrow!  Why?  Because we are overachievers.  It's not enough to come halfway across the world to live, work, and go to school.  We have to be in a prime location too.  We have to be within walking distance to a 24-hour supermarket that sells, wine, cheese, and cured meats.  We have to live near a park so we can go for runs have picnics.  The list goes on and on.

So we took advantage of some discounted rent (due to all those foreigners who fled Japan).  After tomorrow night, we'll be living in Nishi-Shinjuku.  I'll be sure to report more on the new 'hood shortly.  For now, I'd like to pay homage to the neighbors I've come to know and love here in good ol' Motohasunuma.

As Bob would say, these are the people in the neighborhood:

Yakitori guy- I'll miss the wonderful smell of chicken skewers grilling every night.  You always smile and say "konichiwa" when I see you.  Sometimes you offer a beer.  We've never taken you up on it, but I'll miss you!

The little old lady who lives in the end unit- You are such a stickler for the trash rules!  You are often seen hunched over, sorting plastic, glass, aluminum, and cardboard.  I'll never know if you do this of your own accord, or if you are some sort of designated trash official.  Carry on good woman!

The Ramen Shop couple- You served me my first meal in Tokyo.  For that, I'll always be grateful.  I'll also miss watching Mrs. Ramen Shop cleaning the windows with steaming hot water every Tuesday and Thursday morning. 

The guy who wears all black and sleeps standing up at the station entrance- You scare me a little, but I've grown accustomed to you.  I hope you make it safely back to your own bed.

Mamasan- While we only ate at your restaurant once, you'll always be Mamasan to me.  You fry your tempura with care, and you put your customers to work getting beer glasses.  You seemed to genuinely care for our enjoyment, and I really liked the meal.

The Magogin (small grocery store) cashiers- You always speak such long polite sentences to me.  This is especially appreciated even after I had you ring up the order 4 different times because I didn't have enough to money to buy everything I put in my basket (I didn't need those taco flavored chips anyway).  Your patience is a virtue!

The little old lady who screams at everyone- You are not to be confused with the lovely trash lady.  You are scary and mean, and you yell at everyone.  I'll never forget how you shocked me the first time your screams were directed at me.  I'm sorry if I walked too close to you on the sidewalk.  I didn't know it was your sidewalk.  Now I know.   

There are many others I will miss, but these are just a few of the people in my neighborhood...the people that I meet each day!

So long, neighbors! 

More Sakura

After visiting the cherry blossoms last Friday, we decided we wanted to see more.  Sunday afternoon brought a trip to Yoyogi Park near Harajuku.  Sunday in Harajuku is always a crazy and crowded experience, but the weather was great so we headed out.  I had heard that Yoyogi Park was a big party spot during cherry blossom season, but nothing could have prepared me for this.

The video does not do the madness justice.  I could barely hold out my phone long enough to take this 15 second clip for fear of being trampled.  There were people as far as the eye could see.  I didn't even realize the park was this big.  It was insane!

Everywhere you looked, people were eating, drinking, and laughing.  DJ's were playing music.  People were singing karoke, dancing, and just enjoying life.  It was incredible.  We both wished our friends were here to share in the festivities with us!  We know some of you back home would have been right at home here.  We enjoyed the people watching for as long as we could.  The lines for the bathrooms were frightening, so we soon left the park.

Even the guys waited for almost an hour to use the facilities!

Still wanting more sakura, we headed to Nakameguro for a somewhat calmer experience.  This area of Tokyo feels very European.  There is a long river lined with trees and cute Japanese lanterns dangle in between.  The river is bordered by restaurants and cafes on both sides.  Each shop had a small table set up outside to sell wine, sake, beer, and pink champagne to match the flowers.  I even found one shop selling Boursin on crackers!

 

Even as darkness fell, people still sat around eating and enjoying

One shop lined up empty champagne bottles as they sold them

Admiring cherry blossoms is exhausting.  We had planned to come home and cook dinner together, but we ended up at a cute Italian restaurant instead.  After a day of crazed drunken people in the park, and long walks along the river, there's nothing better than sharing a bottle of red wine and eating pasta with the person you like most.  Another great Tokyo day!

Sakura

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for... a post about my first sakura season in Japan!

Yesterday was in the mid 60s but quite cloudy and windy- not the best day for a picnic, but we went anyway.  After much debate over where to go, we settled on Chidorigafuchi.  This park and moat area is outside the northeastern part of the Imperial Palace.  It came highly recommended from more than one source, especially for the small rowboats that could be rented for 30 minute intervals.  We didn't have one of those blue tarps that everyone seems to have, but we grabbed a bath towel and decided that would do for a picnic blanket.

Are you wondering what amazing spread we prepared for our first hanami?  Pasta salads?  Deviled eggs?  Homemade rice balls?  Nope- it was off to the conbini for some cheap food and drink.  What a strange assortment we ended up with:

Sandwiches, maki rolls, and strange Doritos

For once, the main event wasn't about the food but the atmosphere.  I was afraid no one would be out enjoying the blossoms after officials asked people to refrain from over celebrating.  While there were probably a lot less people than usual years, it was still a very festive atmosphere.  You couldn't help but get a little giddy with all those beautiful blooms around!

While the blossoms themselves are obviously beautiful, I most enjoyed seeing all the Japanese people having a good time.  The people I interact with tend to be very restrained.  They are hard-working business men and women who don't have a lot of time or patience for fun and games (I know this- I've tried to play games in class).  But the blossoms bring out the kid in everyone.  As soon as the shoes come off, everyone is sitting on their tarp- eating and laughing.  I even saw a few women picking up fallen blossoms and putting them in their hair.  The sakura truly represent the spirit of the Japanese people- usually quiet, but bold and beautiful at times.  I'm so glad I could enjoy this time of year.  We even got a little tipsy off our canned drinks.  And those boats?  They weren't running them.  I guess they had to show some restraint after all.

I'll leave you with a short video of some Japanese people enjoying hanami:

7.4 Quake

We just had a big aftershock/quake.  It lasted for what seemed like forever (around one minute).  I had almost forgotten what that felt like.  Two small things fell off the shelf here.  The news is warning coastal areas about possible tsunamis.  I really hope that doesn't happen.  Apparently there has been no major damage and no issues at the nuclear plant.  Stay tuned. 

Spring has sprung

There's still a slight chill in the air, but spring is officially here.  Back in DC, the signs of spring are a little different.  The changing of the clocks is probably the first signal that warmer days are coming.  The reopening of the Penn Quarter farmer's market is another indication.  You can always count on seeing a few young DC staffers in flip flops too.  Here in Tokyo, there is one major sign of spring that everyone agrees on.  Cherry blossoms!  They've only just started blooming, but they are EVERYWHERE.  They really do brighten up the otherwise grayish tone of the city in general.  Earlier today, I went for a run jog, and I was just mesmerized by how many trees there were in my little neighborhood alone.  I've been looking forward to this season since I came to Japan, and it's finally here!

While the sakura are certainly nice to look at, it's not the only reason to be excited.  Japanese people love having hanami parties during this time.  Now, I have been to the National Cherry Blossom Festival in DC on many occasions.  There are tons of people swarming around Pennsylvania Avenue eating noodles out of plastic containers and spending money on origami cranes.  Some of them dress up to look "Japanese."  It's crowded, crazy, and hardly authentic.  I heard this year DC even had the nerve to charge an admission fee.  Outrageous.  But hanami parties in Tokyo are much different.  While there is a long story about how they came about, basically you sit under the trees and drink the day away.  Companies send out their lowly interns or junior employees early in the day to reserve spots under the best trees.  Later, the rest of the department comes out with their canned drinks and enough food to feed an army.  It's a time when people connect with each other in a way that's usually quite uncommon.  People have been talking about it for months, and I'm excited to finally be able to participate.  

Unfortunately, in light of the recent disaster, many hanami parties won't go on as planned.  Apparently officials have told people it isn't appropriate to participate in public drunkenness when there are people who have lost everything.  While no one is prohibiting them, many parks aren't going to help facilitate the usual debauchery.  I think this is very sad.  While the merits of drinking during the workday in public can be debated, hanami is about more than that.  From what dozens of Japanese students have shared with me, it's all about national pride.  The sakura symbolize the spirit of the people themselves.  Despite environmental hardships, these beautiful little blossoms come back year after year.  Their beauty is enjoyed for such a short period of time- you have to cherish and celebrate their arrival.  I totally dig it.  And I think that NOW is when people need to embrace their Japanese pride more than ever. 

I'm glad to see that many people are having hanami parties in spite of the recommendations not to.  Yesterday, we stumbled across these lovely people in Nishi-Shinjuku:

Japanese youth enjoy Domino's pizza and beer- just like Americans!

I don't think these people are being inappropriate at all.  Yes, there was a devastating earthquake and tsunami three weeks ago.  Yes, everyone is slightly tense about the situation at Fukushima.  Yes, people have lost loved ones, homes, and all their possessions.  But the Japanese have a saying about life going on.  Tragedy happens everyday, somewhere in the world.  It can't be helped.  You must go on living.  In this case, I find the public drunkenness absolutely inspiring.  I look forward to experiencing it myself later this week.  So yes, please continue to pray for Japan.  But don't stop enjoying spring- the Japanese won't.                  

Social Network

I've officially been in Tokyo for over five months now- can you believe it?  Time has flown by, and in just a few short weeks, we'll be back home for a visit.  This blog has been a really great way for me to keep all of you up-to-date, but it has been hard for me to hear from all of you back home.  I've decided to do something I swore I'd never do...

I'm going to join Facebook.  I know, I know!  It's about time, right?  I haven't been on any social networking sights since Asian Avenue in high school.  While I still have my doubts, I think it is the best way that I can keep up with all of your lives.  I'm tired of not being able to see the same pictures you all see of each other!  I want to know what it means to poke someone!  So after much debate, I've decided to just go for it.  I can't promise I'll update very often, but I'll try.  Please add me as a friend!  There are a million people with the same name as me, so here's a link to my profile page. 

Ameyoko

One of the things I love most about traveling is visiting local markets.  Markets are not only great for buying souvenirs, but some of the best places to get a feel for what a city is all about.  You can always find something special, whether they are selling locally grown produce, arts and crafts, or antiques.  Yesterday, we finally made our way to Ameyoko, a well-known market in Ueno.  I had read about this market before, and I pictured it as a big outdoor flea market with vendors selling whatever they had that day.  In actuality, the area is more of a permanent structure.  It reminded me of the Italian Market in Philadelphia or Eastern Market in DC, but much bigger.

As with any market, you have lots of options for snacks as you walk around.  This market had several vendors selling everything from doner kebabs and soft serve ice cream to bubble tea and takoyaki.  This vendor caught our eye:

A machine makes sweet little pancakes

Leave it to the Japanese to use technology for everything.  We don't know what these little snacks were, but they were warm and yummy!  Imagine a puffy pancake filled with sweet bean (the yellow milder kind, not the stronger red bean).

Most little shops were selling dried foods or clothes.  Strangely enough, several shops sold American items also.  We saw lots of U.S. military gear mixed in with other apparel that I can only describe as "cowboy wear."  Many places made you really feel as though you were bargain hunting.  This came complete with giant bins of stuff all mixed in so you had to dig deep for a good find.

Happy hunting!

Mixed in amongst the bins of clothes and shoes were vendors selling fresh seafood from nearby Tsukiji market.  They would aggressively shout out their best items and prices.  It creates quite a festive atmosphere.  We saw lots of vendors who had "export quality" items also, like big jars of Hellmann's mayonnaise, Skippy peanut butter, and French's yellow mustard.  This stuff was really fun to see, but the coolest part of this market, was stumbled upon by accident.

Often in Tokyo, we find ourselves wandering off the main roads onto the smaller side streets.  This is usually where you find the best stuff- a bit away from the crowds.  As we were walking along a side street, I spotted a random escalator.  It didn't have a sign, but I could see a table of fresh seafood at the bottom, so down we went.  It was literally an underground market.  All kinds of amazing Asian food in one place!  Immediately we spotted green papaya and fresh cilantro (first cilantro sighting in Japan!).  Around the corner, we were overwhelmed with the amount of spices, sauces, and canned goods from all over Asia.

Filipino sauce packets, Indian spices, Thai juices- oh my!

It was great to find this little market.  We probably walked around the whole thing three times, just taking it all in.  "Look, black vinegar!"  "Oh my gosh, they have the red hot dogs!"  "Those turtles are still alive!"  We were totally unprepared for this mecca of goodness.  We actually only walked away with a small bag of chicarron (pork rinds) and a can of Thai iced tea.  Trust me- we will be back though, and soon!

After exhausting ourselves, we needed to sit down for some nourishment.  As always, a humble little izakaya pulled through.  The beer was cold and smooth, the chicken skewers charred and satisfying.  The surprise of the night though, came in the form of a simple scallop:

One fresh scallop: 3 parts

It is amazing how one little piece of seafood can taste so good.  I know I've talked about this before, but I can't help it.  The main flesh is sweet and tender.  The little abductor muscle is rich and buttery.  And those outer connective pieces?  Almost salty and crunchy!  Crazy good- I love me some scallops.  What will I do when I come back to the states, and the only way to eat scallops is boringly seared?  Trust me people- we are missing out on the other good parts.

One afternoon exploring a local market + one evening of good beer and food = another wonderful day in Tokyo.

Apparently, there was another small earthquake during the time we were out, but we didn't even feel it!        
        

New Foods

In an attempt at some normalcy, I'm going to go back to posting about my favorite topic- food.  The events since March 11th have left the supermarkets and convenience stores a little emptier than usual.  There is plenty of food available but without many of the main staples (bread, rice, instant noodles, etc.).  This leaves the shelves wide open to push other products, and it is a good opportunity to try new things.  Recently, we've been reaching for snack products more than usual.  Maybe because there is something comforting about junk food, or maybe we are just feeling a bit less guilty.  It started as, "hey- we just survived an earthquake, we deserve to treat ourselves!"  That might have been when this interesting snack found its way into my shopping basket:

Yes, you read that correctly: "Cheese Almond"

I had seen these strangely intriguing snacks at the market before, but who in their right mind buys something like that?  While partially disgusted by the concept, I had a sneaking suspicion they would be delicious.  First of all, any snack with "cheese" in Japan has been a let down so far.  The snacks that look like Cheetos, smell like Cheetos, and even say "Cheetos" taste more sweet than orange-powdered-cheese savory.  But somehow I knew these snacks would be different.  They were!  They tasted exactly like I imagine Handi-snacks to taste, if you were smart enough to put an almond on top.  Cracker (good!), fake pasty cheese applied with small red stick (good!), almond (good!).  You don't remember Handi-snacks?  They were amazing.  I'm not sure how I ever convinced my health-conscious mother to buy them for me.  Anyway these new snacks were fun.  I think they'd be a great little snack with a cold can of Japanese beer.

In the spirit of saving money, we found ourselves at McDonald's over the weekend.  I know, I know!  I'm in Tokyo, why am I wasting time at McDonald's?  Well, this time I decided to try something new.  Japanese people love shrimp, so McDonald's here has a shrimp sandwich.  I had seen it before, but why bother when I can get my standard Filet-O-Fish?

"Ebi" means shrimp in Japanese

The patty is made of little shrimp that get fried together

The new sandwich was very tasty.  I think it would do well back home.  The shrimp patty is crispy, there is a lot (by McDonald's standards) of lettuce, and a nice sauce (tastes like the Big Mac sauce).  Will I order it again?  Probably not.  I just wanted the novelty of trying something new, but let's face it.  If you're going to get McDonald's, you want to get your classics.  McDonald's isn't really the place to branch out.

Today I branched out a bit in my own small kitchen.  I was making a very humble breakfast of peanut butter on toast, when I looked over at the bunch of bananas I had just gotten from the market.  Now maybe this isn't that new for some of you, but I had never tried what is supposedly Elvis' favorite sandwich.  Although maybe he also added bacon or something crazy?  Anyway, I had never tried it before.  So, I sliced up a banana and put it on the toast.  Man, that thing was crazy yummy!  I didn't even think to take a picture of it- I just ate it right up.  Who knew?

Here's to new foods!     

Drama

The past few days have been crazy.  First, TEPCO (too reminiscent of PEPCO, if you ask me) freaked everyone out by saying there would be a giant power outage in Tokyo.  Thursday afternoon's announcement caused huge backups at train stations all over the city, and the power outage never came.  That's right, no Ikea candle lighting for me!  Then, I discovered this little memo on the US embassy's page.  What the?  I couldn't believe that after all these days of constant reassurance, the US was now recommending Americans leave the country.  Not just the afflicted area, but the entire country.  What was I missing here?  Did they know something they weren't saying?  It drove me crazy.  After many hours of frantic calls to the embassy, flight searching on Kayak, and crazed text messages to other Americans, we decided to chill for the next day or two and wait it out.

Can you imagine just packing a bag and running off to the airport to look for some dudes in orange vests that say "US Embassy"?  No thanks.  Too much chaos if you ask me.  And what is with the wording, anyway?  They recommend that "those in Japan should consider departing."  You recommend we consider departing?  Of course we have already considered departing- who hasn't?!  Outrageous.  If you are going to tell us we should leave the entire country, at least tell us why.  

Then, I get an email from my work that we will be closed from Saturday-Tuesday.  Did they know something I didn't?  Isn't the situation only getting better?  Turns out this was due to all the English teachers who have fled or asked for leaves of absences- not for safety reasons.  Drama!  Too much drama.  All these new developments left me feeling helpless.  I started this blog about feeling lost, and I had never felt more lost in my life.  What to do?

Things could change at any moment.  But for now, we are staying.  This report from the World Health Organization is good news.  And honestly, I get the feeling that the US (and the UK for that matter) just want to take some action.  They are probably not pleased with the way the Japanese government is handling things, and this is their way of commenting on that.  Until I see some solid evidence that things are getting worse, I think we are staying put.  

Please don't worry though.  Should things get worse, we have several options.  Trains are still running to Kyoto, Osaka, and other places south.  We have family in both Taiwan and the Philippines should we actually need to leave the country.  I know this is difficult for many of you back home.  We have lives here.  We came here for a reason, and we want to do what we came for.  We don't think we are being stupid.  I hope you can understand!   

Darkness

Originally Tokyo was exempt from the planned power outages.  Apparently tonight we will not be as lucky.  The past few days have been colder than normal, so people are using more electricity to run their heaters.  They will shut off the power shortly for this evening.  I thought I would post now because I don't know how long we will be without.  I am lucky that my work called me just about 10 minutes before I would have walked out the door.  We have some lovely Ikea candles that will be put to good use, and two awesome flashlights that some of our friends' were smart enough to give out as favors at their wedding (woot!).  Our stove is gas, so we should still be able to have a nice dinner.  I have always loved a short power outage- it's fun to hang out with your loved ones and play cards.  I think I learned how to play War during a power outage with my cousin. 

In the meantime, another nice read for you. 

Until next time!

Don't Panic

Lots of foreigners and Japanese people alike are fleeing the Tokyo area.  Fear of increased radiation levels has sent some of our friends back to the US, France, Germany, Australia, and Taiwan just to name a few countries.  Many people have also been urging us to come home, but we are trying to stay level-headed.  This piece from the British Embassy was nice to read, and I thought it may bring peace to some of you as well.  Thanks for all your emails and concern.  We are staying as updated as we can, and we'll be smart.  If the situation worsens, we'll do what we have to do.  For now, we are staying put.

Aftershocks

Japan is still shaking.  You wake up disoriented- should you run?  Is it a dream?  It isn't.  Sometimes you just feel like you're moving when you aren't.  Your muscles are tense all the time.  Your back hurts from not sleeping well.  You have headaches from stress.  You complain about stores not having the food you like or subway lines being too slow.  But then you turn on the news and you catch the face of an elderly man searching for his family.  A child crying for her mother.  Then you remember you are lucky to be alive.  You are grateful you were with a loved one during the quake.  You are healthy and safe.  All will be okay.  The coast is far away.  The nuclear plants are nowhere near here.  They are planning power outages, but it doesn't affect you.  You are going to be fine.

Thanks to all of YOU for your constant prayers and well wishes.  We are fine.      

Safe

Thanks to everyone for their concern.  The earthquake yesterday was like nothing I've ever experienced.  We are home safe and sound, and there isn't any major damage here.  I'll be back with some more updates soon. 

Cheating

As most of you probably know, I've been in a committed relationship with a wonderful man for almost seven years.  While he continues to see other people, I have remained faithful to him.  I've even followed him around from place to place.  I consider what we have to be really special, and other people think so too.  Today I did the unthinkable- I saw someone else.

I never thought I would be that kind of girl but just like that- it happened.  I was so nervous!  It had been a long time since I did this with anyone else.  Would he like me?  Would I like him?  At first I was shy, but he was very warm and gentle.  He was tender at the right moments but rough when he needed to be.  I've never let anyone else touch me like that!  I started to relax, and then I even enjoyed myself.  Most of the time, my eyes were shut- I was afraid I wouldn't like what I saw!  But in the end it was great.  I have bangs for the first time in years.

You did know I was talking about a haircut, right?  Japanese stylists give you long massages before they chop your hair.  It's a nice touch.   

If my wonderful hair stylist is reading this- today was...different.  Not better, not worse, just different.  You will always be the one for me though.  I can't wait to see you again.    

Chinatown

Gong xi fa cai!  Chinese New Year was February 3rd this year.  Sorry I'm a little late, but I knew this post would be detailed.  When I visited Tokyo in 2003, we tried to find Chinatown.  Chinatown is actually outside of Tokyo in nearby Yokohama.  Last time we took the train to Yokohama and wandered around assuming we'd find it, but we never did.  This time we were prepared.  As it turns out, Yokohama is pretty big and there are several subway stops.  After some research, we decided it that it would be festive to go to Chinatown around the New Year.

One of Chinatown's four surrounding gates

I have to admit, I was skeptical.  With the possible exception of San Francisco, most of the Chinatowns I'd visited had been kind of a let down.  Sure New York's is pretty good for some fake bags or dim sum, but Flushing is really where all the real Chinese action is at.  Don't even get me started on DC.  Okay, too late- now I have to talk about it.  I remember the days when going to Chinatown in DC was an experience.  We actually got dressed up and went down there for special occasions.  Li Ho Food was an institution for my family.  Oh the memories!  Succulent shrimp (with heads on of course),  amazing Peking duck (fresh from the window), juicy pork chops in that sticky red sauce...  Sure I never drank anything so as to avoid having to use that awful bathroom.  And yes, there was the occasional cockroach that made its way across the wall.  But it was the best food!  Chinatown was a destination back then.  It's a miracle I worked so close to the "new" Chinatown for six years and never decided to go out on a soap box screaming, "where are the Chinese people?  Bring back the Chinese people!"  Chipotle and Clydes with cute little Chinese characters above their names make me sick.  Damn you MCI Center Verizon Center!

But we're not talking about Chinatown DC.  The point is, I was skeptical.  Chinese food in Tokyo has been mediocre at best.  I thought Americanized Chinese food was bad, but I'd take General Tso's chicken over some of this bland stuff any day.  I expected one street of fried rice, red fans, and maybe some soggy dumplings.  Thank goodness I was wrong!  It was huge, and the food- for the most part- was great.

Roasted chestnuts from a street vendor

We should have known to stick with street food, but we really had a hankering for dim sum.  We got suckered in to one of many all-you-can-eat places.  The menu had all our usual favorites, and we were getting hungry.  Big mistake.  All-you-can-eat is almost always a bad idea.  The quality just isn't going to be good.  We were really disappointed but ate a lot anyway.

Shopping on the other hand, was a nice surprise.  Most of the shops were filled with cheesy souvenirs (there are those red fans I mentioned), but some were really special.  We spent hours browsing stores, and we still didn't see everything there was to offer. 

All the panda merchandise you could dream of

An adorable Japanese show with beautiful textiles and kitchen goods

A funky shop with imports from Thailand and India

Standard Chinese souvenirs- cell phone charms, red tassel things, etc. 

But the nice thing about this Chinatown was that there actually seemed to be there there.  After passing the tenth store that sold the same Bruce Lee t-shirt, you came across a beautiful and peaceful temple.  Again I found myself not really understanding what it was all about, but there was something there to be respected.  I recognized the smell of incense immediately, and I was transported to my Grandfather's basement.  That smell instantly made me feel a sense of seriousness.  Chinese people don't burn incense the way hippies do.  It's to honor the dead.  I almost didn't want to enter the temple, but how could I not?  It was gorgeous.

Temple entrance

Extra large incense sticks

The amazing interior of the temple

It was really nice to see.  I enjoyed watching people light their incense and take a moment to go inside.  But I can only handle so much seriousness before I have to balance it all out with something easier- more food!  Sure, we stuffed ourselves with bad dim sum, but we had to cancel out that bad food with what was surely the real stuff.  Every corner was full of people standing around (or squatting) slurping soup dumplings out of styrofoam containers, greedily biting into their steaming pork buns, or crunching on some shrimp chips (which strangely, resemble styrofoam, but that's another blog post).  We must eat!

Fighting over the last bite of a wonderful steamed bun

Mooncake!

Okay, before you yell at me, let me clarify something.  I know you don't eat mooncake on Chinese New Year.  I know it's for the Mid-Autumn Festival, but when else am I going to get mooncake in Tokyo?  Okay- just so we understand each other.    

So in conclusion, Chinatown was a winner.  I could have easily spent more than a day there.  There was supposedly a museum that was set up to look like Shanghai in the 1920s and 30s, but we didn't find it.  Next time.  Until then, go eat some Chinese dumplings!